October goes by too quickly. It's the one month that feels fully immersed in autumn, without any feeling that the year is coming to a close, rather slowing its pace. Still colorful, full of bountiful apples, mushrooms, winter squash. It feels alive. Last weekend was the first that actually felt like autumn. Still-green leaves shivering in the wind, crisp air, the softest wisps of ashy clouds blanketing the sky, and warm auburn light of early sunsets.

Yet, the temperatures pop back into the 90s and we're back to eternal summer. Still, our big cat with his thick fur coat stopped hiding under the bushes for sanctuary from the sun. Maybe the length of his fur and the food we cook are the only signs of seasonal progression I need.

So long as it's cold enough for soup, I'm happy with October.

When I was little, I had a complicated relationship with mushrooms. I'd teeter-totter every few months between loving them and being completely repulsed by the texture. Luckily when the teeter-totter came to a stop, it settled on the right side. I think that's why my dad always asked me to take one of something, even if I know I don't like it - our palettes are ever-changing.

I've always thought mushrooms looked like something out of a fairytale, maybe because they often are. Maybe not the same red and white spotted toadstools, but still the most uniquely beautiful ingredients. Always a little different, with their own character. A speckled cap, a twisty stem, a little cluster with personality.

This Woodland Mushroom Soup is a rustic take on a cream of mushroom soup. Instead, the mushrooms are left whole to infuse the broth, and the soup is simmered low and slow until rich, with only a touch of cream to finish.

The mushrooms are sautéed thoroughly in brown butter until golden, bringing out all of the deep flavors. Flavored with oregano, rosemary, parmesan, and a bit of white wine, the mushrooms sponge up the aromatics, infusing the earthy broth. A little homage to Italian soups, a Parmesan cheese rind flavors the broth, while the soup is finished with a touch of cream, a drizzle of olive oil, and crispy pancetta.

A rich, earthy broth, this soup is left unblended, the mushrooms left whole, ideally served with bread to sop up the broth. A comforting meal meant for cooler nights and slow meals.

Creamy Woodland Mushroom Soup

A rich, earthy broth infused with forest mushrooms, herbs and parmesan, finished with a touch of cream, oil and crispy pancetta.

Ingredients

• 8 ounces of small assorted mushrooms*

• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 4 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 shallot, minced

• 1/4 cup white wine

• 6 cups chicken broth

• 2 sprigs of fresh oregano, finely chopped

• 2 sprigs rosemary, finely chopped

• 1 bay leaf

• 1 small parmesan cheese rind

• 1/4 cup heavy cream

• 2 ounces pancetta, roughly chopped (optional)

• 1 tablespoon olive oil (optional)

• salt and pepper, to taste

*Note: Any small mushrooms that can be cooked and eaten whole (clamshell, forest nameko, pioppini, maitakes, shitakes, or any variety sliced into bite-size pieces)

Method

1. In a large pot over medium heat, melt the butter until it begins to brown slightly. Reduce to medium-low, then add the mushrooms, allowing them to soak up all the butter, and sauté thoroughly for at least 10 minutes, until golden brown.

2. Sauté shallots for 2-3 minutes, then add the garlic, cooking for 30 seconds. Deglaze the pan with white wine and pour in the chicken broth. Toss in the oregano, rosemary, bay leaf, and cheese rind, turn the heat to low, and simmer covered for 1 hour. When the broth is rich and infused with flavor, the mushrooms are tender, and the cheese is melted, add salt and pepper to taste.

   Optional: Before serving fry the pancetta over medium-low heat for 5-7 minutes, until brown and crispy.

3. Remove the cheese rind and bay leaf, then finish off by stirring in the cream. Top with a drizzle of olive oil and crispy pancetta!